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Ethyl Ascorbic Acid vs. L Ascorbic Acid: Which Vitamin C Form is Best for Your Skin?
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that plays a very important role in skin health and combating signs of ageing. It comes in many different forms when used in skincare, with two of the most common being L-ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbic acid. But what's the difference between these two types of vitamin C derivatives? And which one is better for your unique skin needs?
Let's find out.
Ethyl ascorbic acid vs l ascorbic acid: key differences
While L-ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbic acid are both vitamin C derivatives used in skincare, they have some important differences:
Chemical structure and stability
The basic structure of vitamin C is very unstable, making formulating with L-ascorbic challenging. Ethyl ascorbic acid was specifically developed to overcome this hurdle. The addition of the ethyl chemical group makes the molecule far more stable. It maintains its effectiveness over time in products and resists breakdown when exposed to sunlight, heat and air.
While the ethyl modification reduces antioxidant strength, the trade-off is longer-lasting stability and shelf-life. The gentler ethyl ascorbic acid may be preferential for individuals with sensitive skin prone to irritation or oxidation.
Penetration and absorption
L-ascorbic acid has superior skin penetration compared to ethyl ascorbic. One reason is that L-ascorbic acid shares an almost identical structure with vitamin C, which is naturally abundant in skin cells. This allows it to easily penetrate the skin barrier and be absorbed into deeper layers where collagen production occurs.
Meanwhile, the ethyl modification causes a slight decrease in lipid solubility, which reduces its penetration. However, ethyl ascorbic acid still absorbs well into the epidermis to provide antioxidant protection, brightening and other rejuvenation benefits – just to a lesser degree than straight L-ascorbic acid. Those with very sensitive skin may benefit more from this gentler derivative.
Benefits of each form of ascorbic acid
Mentioned below are the major benefits of these Ascorbic acid:
L-Ascorbic acid benefits
1. Deep penetration
Unlike other types of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid can penetrate down to the deeper dermis layer of your skin. This allows it to work where collagen is produced and skin ageing occurs.
2. Powerful antioxidant
L-ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant. This means it neutralises free radicals from sun exposure and pollution that damage skin cells and cause signs of ageing. This protection keeps your skin looking youthful.
3. Collagen boosting
By stimulating collagen production in the dermis, L-ascorbic acid helps repair tissues, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Your skin becomes firmer and more resilient.
4. Skin brightening
L-ascorbic acid is the most common ingredient present in Vitamin C Face Brightening Serums. It inhibits melanin production, which causes discolouration and dark spots. With regular use, it fades hyperpigmentation for a brighter, more even complexion.
5. Anti-inflammatory
The anti-inflammatory properties of L-ascorbic acid are effective at calming irritation from inflammatory skin conditions like acne or eczema. Redness and swelling diminish.
6. Moisture retention
Vitamin C enhances the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss. Skin stays hydrated and supple, with less dryness or flakiness.
Ethyl ascorbic acid benefits
1. Enhanced stability
The structure of ethyl ascorbic acid makes it more stable with less risk of oxidation or breakdown. This results in fewer side effects like redness or stinging.
2. Surface protection
While not penetrating deeply, ethyl ascorbic acid provides antioxidant protection primarily to the upper layers of the skin. This guards against environmental damage.
3. Skin brightening
Ethyl ascorbic acid is effective at brightening skin tone and fading dark spots and discolouration by inhibiting melanin production.
4. Hydration booster
Ethyl ascorbic acid boosts moisture levels in the epidermis, keeping skin smooth, soft, and supple with smaller-looking pores.
5. Gentle formula
As a derivative, ethyl ascorbic acid is gentler than pure vitamin C, making it ideal for those with sensitivity or easily irritated complexions.
Is ascorbic acid and vitamin c the same?
Ascorbic acid is just another name for L-ascorbic acid, which is the purest, most active form of vitamin C found in nature. Topical L-ascorbic acid provides the same active form of antioxidant vitamin C that's present in our skin to replenish declining levels. It's a common ingredient in skincare products like Vitamin C Face Wash, which helps to cleanse and brighten the skin.
Meanwhile, “ascorbic acid” is sometimes confused with ethyl ascorbic acid, the modified vitamin C derivative. So be sure not to confuse the two! Check ingredient lists to ensure you know which form of vitamin C you're getting.
Conclusion
While both L-ascorbic acid and ethyl ascorbic acid provide antioxidant protection and anti-ageing vitamin C benefits, L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for its superior potency, penetration, and proven efficacy. It's best for targeting signs of aging like lines, wrinkles, and uneven tone in all skin types.
Those struggling with sensitivity or irritation may benefit more from the gentler ethyl ascorbic acid derivative. Ultimately, there's no “best” form – choose vitamin C based on your unique skin goals and needs!
FAQs
Q1. Which is better for brightening: L-Ascorbic Acid or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?
A. L-Ascorbic acid has a higher brightening ability thanks to greater skin penetration and inhibition of melanin synthesis. It better fades discolouration and evens tone.
Q2. Can I use both L-Ascorbic Acid and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in my routine?
A. You can, just not in the same serum. Layer an L-Ascorbic Acid serum in the morning, followed by an Ethyl Ascorbic moisturiser for added antioxidant protection.
Q3. What percentage of L-Ascorbic Acid should I use in my skincare routine?
A. Start with a lower 5-10% L-Ascorbic Acid serum before gradually increasing to a 10-15% concentration based on your skin's tolerance without irritation.
Q4. Is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid as effective as L-Ascorbic Acid?
A. No, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is less effective. L-Ascorbic Acid remains the gold standard for potency and efficacy.
